Barring gridlock and the occasional traffic light it’s possible to drive up and down the east coast of the United States without stopping. There are plenty of reasons to get out of your car – a string of vibrant cities stretching from the temperate to the tropical, and many towns that offer concentrations of short term accommodations close to the beach. But while these provide an opportunity to turn off the engine, few encourage, let alone reward, really shutting down.

Fortunately there are roads less traveled on the east coast that provide respite for travelers seeking an offramp from humanity’s restless advance. Access is limited but worth seeking out.

I can’t claim to have known much about the Back Back Natural Wildlife Refuge when my wife and I purchased a place nearby several years ago. Like most, the draw to the area in southeast Virginia was the beach, which stretches virtually unbroken for miles south from the Chesapeake Bay along the Outer Banks to Hatteras and beyond. Even my initial forays into the refuge were little more than bike rides along its dikes into False Cape State Park, which borders North Carolina and lays claim to being the southern most park in Virginia.

What brought me closer to the refuge was the pandemic, which curtailed a lot of indoor activities and forced many to work from home. The outbreak meant I could live semi-permanently near the refuge but also closed all the nearby gyms, which meant I needed an alternative place to exercise, particularly in the winter.

The refuge was the obvious choice. It was close, virtually free of traffic, and the access it did offer visitors provided ample opportunity to take in refuge highlights. These included Back Bay itself, wetlands within the refuge, and the beach, which limits activities mostly to walking and fishing.

My wife and I mapped out a three-mile walk that took us to all the areas of the refuge that are accessible year round. It was through these almost daily walks through the refuge that we were able to witness its extraordinary beauty and abundant wildlife.

We quickly learned that coming across wildlife was no sure thing. This isn’t a zoo. Birds and other wildlife move up and down the coastal areas of the Outer Banks with little concern for the sightseeing needs of humans. But over time we learned the optimal way to capture the magnificence of the refuge was to slow down, better yet, stop, find a place to sit and take it all in.

Unlike a lot of wildlife in urban settings, the local inhabitants in the refuge are at best suspicious of daily visitors and like to keep their distance. But if you move at a cadence that indicates you mean no harm they will provide a glimpse into their lives moving at a pace and simple logic alien to modern life.

And there is plenty to see. The refuge is home to hundreds of species of birds, reptiles, amphibians, mammals, and fish. These include osprey, eagles, herons, egrets, and multiple turtle and snake species. Much of the refuge is closed off to the public from November through March to provide a sanctuary for migrating birds such as the whistling tundra swans, which travel to the region every year in large numbers from their breeding grounds in northern Canada and Alaska.

At a time when much of the refuge wildlife has migrated elsewhere or lies dormant, tundra swans bring an explosion of life punctuated by their haunting cry heard as they fly in large formations overhead or commune with their fellow swans before dusk. The refuge was created in 1938 specifically to preserve habitat for these and other wintering and migratory birds.

If instant gratification is what you’re looking for, Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge is probably not the place to go. There are plenty of extraordinary moments to be had but only for those who willing to get out of the car, walk, and wait. With patience and a bit of good timing the refuge reveals itself, and the rewards can be breathtaking.

Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge is located at the south end of Sandbridge, a beach community located on the outskirts of Virginia Beach, Virginia. There are a large number of short term rentals available in Sandbridge, which bustles with beach goers during the summer months. For a great place to stay close to the beach and the refuge, we recommend Bayview Beauty in the Sanctuary at False Cape condominiums. There is a restaurant open year round in the Sanctuary and across the street. There is also a grocery store in Sandbridge and several a few miles away in Virginia Beach. Call 703-362-2298 for additional information.